The Phoenix Mountains

The Phoenix Mountains are famous for Dancong Oolong teas. Dancong means 'single taste', and teas from specific strains of tea tree are picked and processed separately to highlight their individual flavour characteristics. In all there are ten different types, the most famous being Honey Orchid and Yellow Sprig (Gardenia). It has been fascinating to see the intricacy of these teas and to learn about the subtle flavour differences.

The picking season only lasts for ten days each year and I am here at exactly the right time. Everywhere we go we see tea leaves laid out at the side of the road drying in the sun:

We are staying in Fenghuang town (Fenghuang means Phoenix), travelling with Mr Wu, using his sister's house a base and eating all our meals there with the family. As with most families here they pick and process their own tea, which is done in part of the house. It's a very different experience for me having leaves laid out on the floor to wither and being roasted while we eat and drink a few feet away. I was allowed to do some of the hand-rolling of the leaves this morning before breakfast.

During the days we have travelled into the Wudong and Jin mountains to see the tea trees and taste along the way - stopping at houses Mr Wu knows and tasting what they have just made. It's all informal and very hospitable but also quite serious - business is done as we go.

(above: me with Lan Xiu Yu, Dancong tea farmer)

I have always enjoyed tasting teas at source and meeting with producers, and this has taken it to a whole new level - real artisan tea making. I hope I will be able to buy small quantities from some of the people I met and drank tea with today.

The higher up the mountain the better, and the older the tree the better, as far as quality is concerned. This is defined as CHAQI, taste that is not instant but rises from deep inside, coats your palate and lingers. It is a passionate expression here, with real emotion, and there really isn't an adequate English equivalent. Teas with good chaqi cost serious money.


Highlight of the day? Hard to choose,  but I think one stands out, and partly because it can never be seen outside China. This was the 'Ice Dancong', freshly rolled and fermented leaves that are frozen without being dried (see image below). The tea is brewed from frozen and is all aroma. It has become very popular locally but doesn't travel well!

Flying to Shanghai tomorrow and then on to Suzhou for Tai Lake and Bi Luo Chun green tea.