Let me paint the picture. An upland valley surrounded by
forests, planted with tea bushes, the scent of Wisteria in the air, large
butterflies and a background of birdsong.
Given all this, I could make allowances for the tea, but I don't need to. Try to imagine small leaves so delicate that they
are almost transparent, appearing the palest lime green as the sun catches
them. This is Anji Baicha, or Anji 'White Tea'.
The name comes from the pale colour, and in fact the leaves are made into a
very fine green tea. It has become a personal favourite, and was also a big
success at Fortnum & Mason last season, selling out in a matter of weeks.
It is almost the perfect green tea - beautiful to look at, easy to prepare and
with a subtle and lingering flavour. It is also very expensive, as the top
grade is picked on only a single day each year. Teas picked on subsequent days
are also very fine, and eagerly awaited in the local teashops. This means it is
quite difficult for outsiders to get hold of early teas, and why good local
relationships are so important.
Our tea comes from Qian Qunyin, a renowned expert who also has a very fine tea centre in Anji town. She is an impressive lady, with real presence. She is also recognised for producing the finest quality Baicha.
I came away loaded with sample packs, and will be happy to share the experience with anyone who is interested in how good a green tea can be.
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